Purnululu 2

Look - no doors!!!


Co-pilot Ollie V...



Scenic shots - Picaninny Gorge

Beehive formations characteristic of Purnululu National Park

Purnululu - Bungle Bungles

We arrived at the turn off to Purnululu (The Bungle Bungles) all stocked up for a two or three days camp. The road in was apparently tough (the book said to allow 2-3 hours for the 53km trip) and we found this out at the first creek crossing. I waded across a couple of times trying to plot a suitable course but every way there was deep water (half way up my thigh) and large underwater boulders we figured the Territory would end up like a stranded tortoise with its belly on a rock and four legs in the air. So we sheepishly put our tail between our legs and turned around back to Turkey Creek (not another animal analogy but a real place).

We have since heard that someone else got stuck here yesterday and it cost a $1000 to get towed out!!!





Back at Turkey Creek we opted for the only alternative...




Harry, Ollie and I took the VintersonTour show to the air. We had to leave Will behind to mind Jenny.

I have never been in a chopper (you are allowed to call them choppers only AFTER you have been in one) and this one didn't have any doors. I should have asked for a discount but I was far too petrified. Harry, sitting next to me and Ollie riding shotgun were fine with Harry in particular chatting away on the intercom and asking thousands of questions. I was struggling just to stop dribbling and thinking how glad I was that I chose dark shorts that morning.

I should have been enjoying the view and learning of the fascinating geology from our guide but my mind was occupied with outback helicopter maintenance schedules, metal fatigue and that there actually isn't much substance to a helicopter and even less keeping me in this one.

After the initial shock the flight was fantastic (particularly the bit when you land and get out). I took thousands of photos (mainly of the inside of the chopper and my feet and lap).

I was immensely proud at how well the boys handled it and very thankful to Harry whose constant chatter on the intercom regularly snatched me back from my thoughts of free falling and flaming wrecks. I even remember him at one point correcting the guide over an observation on termites.

Next time I think I'll risk the creek.



Brave aviator.

Back to the Gibb River Rd

Kimberley Boab Tree
After a couple of days relaxing in Broome we headed back into the now infamous Gibb River Rd to visit a few places missed the first time.
The above is perhaps the largest of these Kimberley icons we have come across.


Tunnel Creek runs right through a section of the Leopold Range. The bulk of the walk needs to be undertaken by torchlight as it is pitch black in some places. The "Tunnel" is nearly a kilometer long and was the hideout for a notorious "cattle duffer", Jandamarra who was shot outside the entrance. The boys had fun climbing over the boulders, wading through the water spotting yabbies, fish etc. We even discovered a side cavern that Jandamarra apparently used in his three years on the run.



Croc Country
The gorges in this part of the Kimberley are closer to the coast and therefore in "Croc Country". The Boys have been gagging to see some crocs and so far have had to settle with some stuffed toys and postcards from the souvenir shops.
Finally some real cold blooded ones. We counted 30 on the 45 min walk around Windjana Gorge.




Windjana Gorge

Back to Broome

Back to Broome - still no swimming at Cable Beach! Not stingers but a croc sighting so swimming prohibited - we are destined not to swim at Cable Beach again!!!

Sunset at Cable Beach....

Heading back on the Gibb River Road tomorrow for just a short trip back to one of the gorges - we are all praying for sunshine and good road conditions....our beach break is over!

Cape Leveque 5 - Farewell

A final farewell picture of our beach shelter...we were so sad to leave and tried to stay another night but they were booked out! It was time to move on....We are now half way through our trip and this was the furthest point we will be from home - we couldn't have picked a better place to mark the turning point! It really was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been and the whole beach shelter experience really made it for us. It was so different to anywhere else we had stayed and just so relaxing. Everyone should come here!

Instead of heading straight back to Broome we decided to have a night at Middle Lagoon, another Aboriginal community on the Dampier Peninsula. A beautiful big bay but unfortunately we had been spoilt by Cape Leveque!

We had been promising the boys a camel ride since we left Sydney and Broome was the logical choice - sunset camel rides along Cable Beach! This was what you did at Cable Beach! But not for the Griswalds...no we opted for the local camel guide in a small community near Middle Lagoon, rather than the smoothly run commercial operation at Cable Beach! Not sure if this place would have met the standards of Tourism Australia! The guide (who was actually the nephew of the mud crabbing guide) lead us off on 2 camels one of which stood up while Harry was only half on - great start! The camel train consisted of 4 camels - 2 we were riding, another attached to the back and then the bonus 10 month old camel (baby of the camel Harry and I were riding)! Well the ride started with the baby camel weaving in and out between us trying to nibble on all our legs and then constantly tripping over its own legs underneath us. No wonder he suggested Ollie and Will wear bike helmets - it was obviously going to be a hairy ride!!! After a nervous start and a bit of stampeding (Harry freaked out, Ollie and Will thought it was fantastic) everyone settled down and actually the ride was great. He lead us through the bush describing the Aboriginal uses of all the plants and then down onto the beach - there was not a soul on it. Beautiful beach with stark red sand walls in the distance. Only a couple of small communities live along this bay. There were the most amazing shells and the boys came back laden with treasures and full of knowledge - actually Harry the expert on all topics managed to outdo the guide with information on dangerous sea creatures!



Middle Lagoon below.

Cape Leveque 4

Beach shelter floor decorating by Ollie and Will!



Out on the boat tour there was a reef in the middle of nowhere with the tides causing waterfalls. It was quite a bizarre sight.

Early morning walks....

Cape Leveque 3 - In the water

Singing in the shower!

Michael actually did catch a fish finally but not one we could eat!

We spent a great day out on a boat tour run by another local aboriginal and went out snorkelling, swimming, fishing miles out from Cape Leveque. It was hard to believe we were still in Australia! The most beautiful clear water and secluded little beaches. Great to go out with the local aboriginals as you get a real sense of their culture and pride in their heritage.